We woke to a dazzling morning; bright skies with high white clouds. Had breakfast as usual on the terrace, while enjoying the views and eavesdropping on conversations.
Our thought was to give our weary legs a break and just stay close to home wandering the streets and alleyways of Vernazza. Yesterday we had wondered about how the shops received their goods since no car traffic was allowed. Yesterday, in the morning, was delivery day. Small vans came in, unloaded, and then departed rapidly. It was like everyone must have their vehicle out of town by 10 a.m.
Today was a farmers market, with trucks and carts representing produce, cheese and meats, plants & herbs as well as clothing and household wares. It really brought the town to life.
But the hike to Monterosso beckoned me. I just couldn’t come all of this way and now, with a perfect day, not at least trek part of that trail. Tom, still nursing an injury from a fall at the Duomo in Milan, opted out. We agreed to give me three hours before sending out the rescue party!!
Not to worry about hiking alone – – – the trail was crowded with trekkers going in both directions. Just outside of Vernazza you paid for a trail pass (or a trail/train pass) for the day. The climb out of Vernazza was steep with literally hundreds of stairs. The smart trekkers had poles (I was not so smart) and once I was a little more than a half hour into it I knew I didn’t want to go back down all of those stairs. So on to Monterosso I went. The views were breathtaking and the trail, despite the recent rains, was in good repair.
About an hour later, Monterosso was in view. Probably two thirds of the hike in this direction was uphill, the other third was part flat and then the final downhill leg into Monterosso. Once down, there was still the walk through town to the train station!
It was well worth the push on tired legs, although I did opt for the train back! I arrived to a very busy Vernazza, packed with day trippers. Met Tom at the hotel, showered and put my weary feet up. We decided to stay on property enjoying the sights and sounds from above and wait out the visitors.
Around 5:30 we headed down to a much quieter town. While Tom queued up for focaccia, I went in search of beers. We took our dinner down to the harbor where we found the perfect bench on which to eat and watch the parade to and from the ferry.
After dinner we walked to the end of the breakwater to wait for the sunset. As the evening progressed more and more wandered west to the rocks on the water’s edge to be in place for the setting of the sun.
Last night, as we were finishing dinner I looked up, and there among the stars was the undeniable movement of the International Space Station across the sky! Tonight I knew (because I have the app!) there would be another passover at 7:45. From the terrace of our room I waited and watched and then, like clockwork, there it was – – – a beautiful 6 minute transit across the Italian sky.
We said good night to Vernazza and our last day in Cinque Terra. Domani, Lucca.
¡Ciao America! 