¡Ciao America!

Luckily we were a day at sea yesterday because I succumbed to Tom’s cold and was good for nothing!!

I did manage to get myself down to breakfast and then we walked the upper decks for awhile. But, because of the sea day, nearly every chaise lounge was spoken for. So we returned to our stateroom where we spent a good part of the day, reading, catching up on world news (they have CNN and the BBC on our television) and talking to the girls in Nashville.

After a good long nap and some cold medicine I rallied for dinner. It was the ‘Captain’s Dinner’ and we didn’t want to miss seeing everyone tarted up! And they were fancy – – men in suits and ties, women in all manner of dress and jewelry and, then again, the occasional ‘casual’ attire slipped in.

We have been seated at the same table for two nights and have had the same waiter, Joselito, from the Philippines. He now knows our habits (we take sparkling water, we like ice, olive oil for our bread, etc.).

The dinner was festive and delicious and I’m glad I rose to the occasion. But my stamina was waning and we were back in the stateroom by 10:00. More cold medicine and I was back in bed.

We will arrive in Santorini at 7 a.m tomorrow. Fingers crossed for recovery 🤞🏼

Every cruise has had a different ‘flavor’ and this one was no exception. Probably most noticeable was the very few English speakers on board and even fewer Americans. There were maybe a few dozen of us. LOTS of Italians, Germans, Asians and a few from the UK. Every announcement and most printed materials were in five or six languages! We were happy they led with English 😃

The embarkation port, along with the price point usually defines the ‘cruiser’ demographic. Since Italy is so easily accessible to all of Europe, that explained the European dominance on this ship. The average age was also quite a bit younger, maybe 40’s (vs. Viking’s 70’s!), and there were quite a few children on board. All these factors combined made for a lively, fun loving group enjoying their holiday.

We have chosen, on every cruise, to have a room with a balcony. First, it makes the measly square footage appear larger, and second, it was lovely to have a place outside that you didn’t have to share with anyone! I would have coffee delivered first thing in the morning, retreat to the balcony, write this blog and enjoy the remnants of the sunrise (we are in the port side of the ship and so the sun rises off our balcony each morning).

We departed Venice at 5 p.m. and sailed south. We wouldn’t reach Bari until two in the afternoon the following day which gave us a leisurely morning on the ship.

We had breakfast outside on an upper deck, then donned our swimsuits to lay by the pool for awhile. I love The fact that every shape and size is in a bathing suit! So refreshing. The pool was cool and salt water, also refreshing.

We came back to the room to shower and prepare for the day’s excursion. Although the ship docked in Bari (in the Puglia region) we chose an excursion to Matera and ‘the Sassi’.

Matera, an hour by bus from Bari, is one of the of the three oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world (Petra, Jordan and Jerusalem being the others). The city of Matera is a thriving metropolis and home to the Sassi. The ‘Sassi’ (meaning rocks) is literally cave dwellings dating back to the Paleolithic era.

Once known as Italy’s Shame for its squalor, disease and infant mortality it was vacated in the 1950’s. In recent years it has been named a UNESCO heritage site for its history and importance. It is now in the process of being preserved and re-inhabited.

We returned to the ship about 7 p.m. We checked in with Ali and to see if Paige had arrived (first flight out of Chicago was canceled due to weather). Although not there yet she was due to arrive later in the evening.

We had a lovely, late dinner in one of the ship’s restaurants. Returned to our stateroom to read and sleep 😴

Today was predominantly a travel day. Our landlady in Lucca was kind enough to make taxi arrangements for us. We were traveling by train from Lucca to Venice where we would board our ship for a 7-day Adriatic/Mediterranean cruise.

We were a little nervous because the final train was to arrive in Venice at 1:30 pm and our window to board the ship was from 1:30-3:00. We’ve had some tardiness issues on the regional trains, but we’re hoping for more punctuality on the major trains.

We left Lucca at 9:30 am routing through Florence. We had a 40 minute layover there before the final train from Florence to Venice. Only 5 minutes late we were confident of making our ship. We did lose a little time along the way but, on good recommendations, we got off the train at the Mestre station, one stop before the Santa Lucia in Venice, and took a cab to the cruise port.

Embarkation was a breeze. We kept laughing at ourselves for being on yet another cruise! But this one, sandwiched as it was between 10 days on land prior and 7 days after felt good. Plus, the itinerary begged being on a ship.

Once on board we found our stateroom, and while waiting the arrival of our bags, went to one of the dining venues for a bite to eat. A mandatory safety drill, activating our on board account and unpacking for the week rounded out the day.

We had a nice FaceTime chat with Ali and it was so good to see her face and hear her voice. Paige should arrive there tonight or tomorrow morning, I forget which.

We did more self-guided ship orientation, stopped for a glass of wine and then headed off to bed.

Another day in the books 📚

Sorry we had only two days here, we were totally enchanted with Lucca! Today was slower because Tom’s leg (from his mishap in Milan) was aching and he somehow managed to catch a doozie of a cold.

We postponed Cindy’s arrival until 1 p.m. because we were also waiting for a call from Ali & James prior to her surgery. We were able to FaceTime audio with them en route to the hospital and then a few texts once there. It feels wrong to be so far away when she’s having surgery, but Paige will arrive tomorrow and I feel so good about that.

Another beautiful Tuscan day awaited us. When Cindy arrived we all agreed a long, al fresco lunch was in order. We will all be leaving tomorrow morning and thought the evening would be well spent packing and organizing for our respective departures. Cindy will return to US we will head to Venice to board our cruise!

Cindy had a lovely restaurant in mind, atop the wall and with a divine menu. The weather was perfect for the walk and the dining. So civilized to have unlimited time to eat and visit. We had to keep reminding ourselves that we were eating lunch in Lucca!!

After lunch we walked the wall back towards our apartment taking in the local scenes. We stopped at the gallery of the artist Andrea Roggi. His sculptures are installed throughout Lucca and are really quite wonderful.

Near our apartment we said our goodbyes. But we will see each other in a month in Pasadena for our 50 year high school reunion!! Can’t wait to drop the fact that we just saw each other in Italy – lol.

Evening was spent organizing, reading and waiting for word on Ali’s surgery. Sometime after we went to bed we got the call from them and were able to speak to Ali. All went very well and we hope her recovery will be smooth.

Domani, Venice and MSC Cruises!!

We said our goodbyes to our little piece of paradise on the Italian coast. I will miss sleeping to the rhythmic sounds of the waves lapping the shore and the smell of the sea air.

After a last breakfast on the terrace, we finished packing and hauled our suitcases down the 138 stairs!! Cinque Terre is not for the faint of heart or physically compromised! We decided to catch an earlier train to Lucca, since our experience with the timeliness of the regional trains in this area was sketchy, and we only had a few minutes between one connection.

The train ride through the countryside was lovely as we left the coast and headed inland. We arrived in Lucca as scheduled and took a taxi to our flat where our landlady was waiting to greet us. The flat will be perfect for our short time here.

We had made arrangements to meet Cindy (a high school bestie) once we had arrived and settled in. Both of our apartments are within the walled city of Lucca making everything easily walkable and close. She met us at our place and, with a glorious afternoon to greet us, we headed out into the beautiful walled city.

Lucca is a welcomed change of pace after the busyness and crowds of Cinque Terre. Although there are cars allowed within the wall, it feels more a pedestrian and bicycle city. Lovely. Our apartment is quite close to the wall and there are access points all along to get you to the top. We were surprised how broad the top of the wall was, very much like a park with pathways, benches, and open spaces. When we had heard you could “walk the top of the wall” this was not what we expected.

It was sweet to be halfway around the globe with an old chum!!

We continued our stroll (Cindy warned us that walking too fast was a sure sign that you were American!) atop the wall until we reached the part of the city where Cindy’s apartment was. A beautiful pied-à-terre flooded with light and a large terrace. You did have to climb 52 stairs to reach it, but it was worth the climb!!

After a tour of her place and a glass of water we headed on through the city. Consistently beautiful and a decidedly homey feel. We threaded our way through streets and plazas eventually finding our way to Undici Undici where we had a cocktail and an aperitivo.

We walked Tom home after cocktails and then Cindy and I continued our city stroll down the ‘Fashion street’, Via Fillungo, until we reached Plaza Anfiteatro. This is the very large public area used for markets and fairs, but where this night it was alive with the restaurants that encircled the plaza. There was no way to do it justice with a photo.

We enjoyed one more glass of wine and a long chat before calling it a night. We walked to a halfway point between our apartments and then we walked our separate ways home.

We woke to a dazzling morning; bright skies with high white clouds. Had breakfast as usual on the terrace, while enjoying the views and eavesdropping on conversations.

Our thought was to give our weary legs a break and just stay close to home wandering the streets and alleyways of Vernazza. Yesterday we had wondered about how the shops received their goods since no car traffic was allowed. Yesterday, in the morning, was delivery day. Small vans came in, unloaded, and then departed rapidly. It was like everyone must have their vehicle out of town by 10 a.m.

Today was a farmers market, with trucks and carts representing produce, cheese and meats, plants & herbs as well as clothing and household wares. It really brought the town to life.

But the hike to Monterosso beckoned me. I just couldn’t come all of this way and now, with a perfect day, not at least trek part of that trail. Tom, still nursing an injury from a fall at the Duomo in Milan, opted out. We agreed to give me three hours before sending out the rescue party!!

Not to worry about hiking alone – – – the trail was crowded with trekkers going in both directions. Just outside of Vernazza you paid for a trail pass (or a trail/train pass) for the day. The climb out of Vernazza was steep with literally hundreds of stairs. The smart trekkers had poles (I was not so smart) and once I was a little more than a half hour into it I knew I didn’t want to go back down all of those stairs. So on to Monterosso I went. The views were breathtaking and the trail, despite the recent rains, was in good repair.

About an hour later, Monterosso was in view. Probably two thirds of the hike in this direction was uphill, the other third was part flat and then the final downhill leg into Monterosso. Once down, there was still the walk through town to the train station!

It was well worth the push on tired legs, although I did opt for the train back! I arrived to a very busy Vernazza, packed with day trippers. Met Tom at the hotel, showered and put my weary feet up. We decided to stay on property enjoying the sights and sounds from above and wait out the visitors.

Around 5:30 we headed down to a much quieter town. While Tom queued up for focaccia, I went in search of beers. We took our dinner down to the harbor where we found the perfect bench on which to eat and watch the parade to and from the ferry.

After dinner we walked to the end of the breakwater to wait for the sunset. As the evening progressed more and more wandered west to the rocks on the water’s edge to be in place for the setting of the sun.

Last night, as we were finishing dinner I looked up, and there among the stars was the undeniable movement of the International Space Station across the sky! Tonight I knew (because I have the app!) there would be another passover at 7:45. From the terrace of our room I waited and watched and then, like clockwork, there it was – – – a beautiful 6 minute transit across the Italian sky.

We said good night to Vernazza and our last day in Cinque Terra. Domani, Lucca.

The rain fell and hard throughout the night. With the terrace doors open, the sounds and the smells made for beautiful sleeping (when I wasn’t stressing about a flood!). We woke to no rain but still overcast skies, but it was clear the storm had passed. By the time we were finished with breakfast we knew it was going to be a beautiful day.

We had heard that the 13 victims of the 2011 flood were buried at the town cemetery on the hill above town. Our first order of business was to go pay our respects.

There was also a 14th century church on this hill that provided the most magnificent views back on Vernazza.

After paying our respects and looking with fresh eyes on the upper areas of town that had been devastated by the flood, we headed for the trail to Corniglia.

We were excited to finally be able to walk to one of the neighboring towns. But, again, our plans were thwarted! When we reached the hut where you pay the toll to walk the path the attendant told us that because the rain had been hard, the trail was muddy and deemed unsafe for travel today. But the village view was still incredible!

Back to the train station to execute Plan B. Luckily the regional trains run about every 10-15 minutes, so there is never much of a wait. The ride was short and sweet, through one long tunnel to Corniglia. This is the only one of the five towns that is not accessible by ferry. And when you arrive you see that it really doesn’t have much of a harbor presence. The walk from the train station to town (either stairs or road) is the furthest of any of the 5 Terre. We chose the stairs up.

Corniglia was probably my second favorite town after Vernazza, small and tucked away in the hillside. The center is a matrix of a few streets with the requisite cafés and bars, a church and breathtaking views of the sea.

We found a yummy café close to the church and just outside of the heart of the town. We had a light lunch in anticipation of our dinner at Belforte later that night.

Street scenes were fun and authentic.

We chose the road for our return (much easier on the knees) and caught the next train back to Vernazza. A rest, with feet up, was in order. Checked in with girls – – Paige successfully arrived in London (for work) and Ali was getting ready for work. Although we are limping along with only WiFi at our lodgings, I love the technology that keeps us connected. We do, however, turn off all devices at night because the texts and weather alerts continue to bombard us!

Just prior to 7 p.m. we made our way around the corner to Belforte Restaurant. Those with and without reservations were queued up on the stairs in anticipation.

We had made a 7 p.m. reservation for tonight when we arrived in Vernazza, knowing the restaurant’s reputation and popularity. At 7 p.m. they began letting people in; those with reservations and the unlucky ones without, who were turned away.

We were extremely fortunate to secure a corner table on the upper terrace. Perfect to enjoy the last of the sunset and views in both directions.

There really wasn’t a bad choice on the menu. At James’s suggestion I ordered the squid ink pasta with shrimp, Tom had the zucchini and shrimp pasta and we shared a side of grilled vegetables. Accompanied by good local wine we were sated and happy.

The town is much quieter when we leave the restaurant. Late diners and those cleaning up from the day’s activities.

All in all, a perfect day ❤️

The anticipated rains arrived and altered our plans somewhat. Because the storm had been anticipated to be a strong one, the walking path from Vernazza to Monterosso was closed ‘by order of the Mayor’. Plan B was the train.

Either because it was Sunday, or because the weather was less than favorable, the crowds were much diminished. Monterosso is the largest of the five towns and probably the most touristy. But again, weather or day of the week kept the crowds at bay.

There is a beautiful waterfront and promenade that you walk from the train station towards town. Because of the storm the seas were rough and the ferry service did not run.

Town has two streets that converge at the church. Both streets were alive with busy eateries, bars, gelaterias and shops. We overheard a woman exclaiming about a great, authentic restaurant with really fresh food. We chased her down and she happily walked us down the alleyway to point it out. We were not disappointed! I had the gnocchi with mussels and clams while Tom had the pesto lasagne. Both were delicious and beyond filling.

We wandered the streets, poked into shops and visited the church on our return to the train station. The regional trains are frequent and convenient.

Once back in Vernazza, we stopped at the market for a bottle of wine and some dessert. The weather was still quite threatening and we wanted to be in before the big downpour.

A sidebar: Vernazza and Monterosso suffered major flooding in October of 2011 when it rained 22 inches in six hours!! The one street became the raging water’s way to the sea. From the photographs it looked like the water reached above the first story of most buildings and came up to the overpass for the train station. With our recent history of flooding and debris flow we were acutely sympathetic to their tragedy.

After breakfast on the terrace and with the promise of a beautiful day we headed to two of the southern towns only accessible by train or ferry. There were/are trails connecting all five towns but rains in 2012 caused damage to some. From Vernazza we can access Corniglia (to the south) and Monterosso (to the north), the others we will access by train.

Riomaggiore is the southernmost of the five towns. We were on an early train, but the day beckoned many. The towns are carved into the hillside of, not even valleys, but crevices in the mountains that stretch to the sea. A single road, in most, leads from the sea to the town. Multitudes of stairways and alleyways branch off the road leading to homes and other pathways.

All the towns are, of course, known for their seafood, but Riomaggiore is famous for its cones of ‘calamari fritti’; fried calamari served with a lemon wedge and wooden skewers to spear it! So fresh and perfectly cooked it was a welcome treat. Tom found a foccaceria next door and ordered the very Italian ham & pineapple focaccia!! A cappuccino and a Diet Coke and we were set!

Refreshed and fed we wandered the walkways and climbed the stairs throughout the town, capturing views and glimpses of daily local life. You wonder what it is like to live in one of these villages inundated, as they are, with tourists almost year round.

We decided to take the ferry from Riomaggiore to Manarola so we could see the towns from the sea. Ferry service is quite regular and ticketing and boarding efficient. We were able to get a nice view of Riomaggiore as we left the harbor, however, we pulled into the ferry stop south of Manarola so were cheated of the town view.

We arrived in Manarola in literally 10 minutes!! Smaller, but equally quaint, we mastered the hills and the stairs to explore. The reward is a triple gelato! We opted for the train back to Vernazza, as did a thousand other Saturday day trippers!

At the stop at Corniglia the train was so full they didn’t even open the doors! We were the next stop and happy to be free of the crowd. A stop at the market for a cold beer and we retreated to our hotel room for some R&R.

Because it was the weekend we were able to talk to both girls via FaceTime. So nice to hear their voices, see their faces and gather their news. With good news on all fronts, we signed off for the day.

We went back out to a much quieter town and enjoyed a small bite at a local pizza shop. A stroll around the town and waterfront before heading back to the hotel. There is a storm approaching tonight and threatens to continue tomorrow. Still, we slept with the doors open and fell asleep to the rhythm of the sea.

It was hard to say goodbye to our little apartment in Milan, but I think we got out of town just in time. Things were really starting to ramp up for Fashion week!

With what we now knew was an easy walk to the train station, we were not pressed for time. Check out was 10 a.m. and our train was scheduled for 12:10. When we got to the station we grabbed a coffee and sandwiches to take on the train for lunch. Track assignment isn’t posted until about 15 minutes before departure, so we found a seat and watched the colorful parade of people in this very busy transportion hub!

We found our car and assigned seats (although we were sitting one behind the other!) and settled in for the 3 plus hour train ride to Vernazza. The train departed promptly and we were soon out of the city limits and into the Milanese countryside. The landscape continued to change as we went on from farm land to hills and then finally the appearance of the coastline. It’s very reminiscent of going south on the 101 and passing through the Gaviota pass and then, voilà, there is the Pacific!

Somewhere along the line we were delayed (I think I was napping!) and by the time we arrived in Levanto we were more than thirty minutes behind schedule and had missed our connecting train to Vernazza. Tom was sitting next to a young woman who was able to pull up the train schedule and found there was another departure 20 minutes after our arrival. Since we were within a 90 minute window we didn’t need to buy another ticket ✅. We learned that these little regional trains are often behind, but luckily are scheduled frequently.

Arriving into Vernazza, the second of the five towns that make up Cinque Terre, was a little magical. From the train station, the one main pedestrian street (there are no cars allowed in the 5 Terre villages) leads gently down to the sea. Cafes, bars, focaccerias, pizzerias, gelaterias and green grocers abound, all alive with locals and foreigners alike. The mix of languages and laughter is intoxicating.

We checked into our hotel, Gianni Franzi, highly recommend by Ali and James who had stayed here in 2016. We followed the clerk to our room, “many stairs” she said and she wasn’t kidding!! Even though we had packed on the light side, the luggage felt extremely heavy by the time we arrived to our room (the last three flights of stairs were spiral staircases which made navigating with a bag a challenge). Thank goodness we will only make that trip once!

The hotel is utterly charming, stacked on a hillside like so many blocks, with terraces of varying sizes tucked here and there to take advantage of the sea views. Our room has a balcony facing the sea which adds to its charm.

A quick refresh and change of clothes and we headed out to explore and find a place to watch the sunset. As the day was drawing to a close, people were coming back to the harbor in their boats, out of the water from their swimming and just generally migrating to the sea to witness this daily ritual. There is something quite special about watching the sun quietly drop into the sea.

Heading back up the street we found a trattoria for a light supper. The area is known for its Genovese pesto which we ordered on Trofie pasta, also a specialty of the Liguria region. With an Insalata Mista and some local white wine we were happily initiated into the Vernazza cuisine!!

Satisfied in every way we fell happily into bed.