The sleeping has been blissful aboard the Lirica! Almost without exception we sleep with the balcony door open giving us both sea breeze and the sounds and smell of the water. That, coupled with the constant soft vibration of the ship and you have a recipe for a good night’s sleep.
We arrived in Chania about sunrise. Watching the ballet of docking this ship is also amazing. Like parking a building two city blocks long and six stories tall, but accomplished effortlessly (or it looks effortless from my vantage point)!
We had arranged for an independent wine tasting and food walking tour before leaving home. We, and another couple, met Nasos, our guide, at the port. Nasos gave us an overview of the agenda for the day and a brief history of his life and how this came to be his business.
We climbed out of the port of Souda and up into the hills for our first stop – – – for coffee ☕️ the man had my heart right there!! The view back down to the harbor was beautiful and Nasos left the four of us alone to chat. Vincent and Angela, a couple about our age, were from Toronto, although Vincent had been born in Sicily and Angela was of Sicilian descent. They came on the cruise after 2+ weeks in Sicily visiting family and would return to Toronto at the cruise’s end.
Nasos retrieved us and we wound back down out of the hills to town. Next stop, wine tasting (have I mentioned this man had my heart ❤️)? Lady Maria, the proprietress, continues the family business started by her father-in-law. The shop deals only in indigenous wines, from small productions that are not exported. So, wine you could only have here!
We had a short lesson on wine tasting (vs. drinking); looking at clarity and color, smelling aromas and learning the art of the mouth swirl and spit. Before each wine was served she showed us the grape varietal and it’s region on the island. We tasted two whites, a rośe and a robust red. I have to say I went into the event not anticipating I would like Greek wine, but I was happily surprised by the quality And taste of each one.
Nasos reappeared at the end of our tasting and led us, on foot, to the harbor. Here he pointed out our meeting point and gave us free reign for the next 45 minutes. We wandered the streets taking photos of the local color, browsing in an art gallery and a few of the many shops scattered among the tavernas.
We met at our appointed place and time and this time were led through the ‘old town’ of Chania. For about 300 years (1300’s-1600’s) Chania was occupied by Venetians. Their influence on the architecture, improvements to the harbor and the layout of the city was clear. A mosque in the harbor area is a remnant of Ottoman occupation following the Venetians.
The meander through the old town brought us to Taverna Ela where a vast assortment of Greek foods awaited us. We started with two hard cheese (on the order of Toscana) served with honey (spooned on top of the cheese pieces you took). We learned this is traditional at weddings and other receptions.
This was followed by a Greek salad, but not the one you’re conjuring right now! At the base is dry bread, this topped with tomatoes, cucumbers, onions, olives and goat cheese. Sprinkled with dried oregano and then doused with Greek olive oil. Delicious.
We all could have stopped there, but next came a platter with dolmas, dried pork, two types of local olives, a Greek version of bruschetta and more cheese (feta this time) and radish slices. And it didn’t stop there – – a pasta dish, akin to lasagne, but made with tubular pasta and topped with a bechamal sauce completed the main meal. Now near stomach explosion, out came dessert (gelato atop cake topped with whipped cream) and grappa!! Authentic, abundant and delicious.
We waddled out and down the streets to the old Central Market. Nasos left us here to wander while he fetched the car to return us to the ship. We all agreed that this had been an A+ experience.
Back on the ship we all vowed not to eat another thing that day! Tom and I retreated to our stateroom to touch base with the girls, read and relax. An hour or so later I went in search of the jigsaw puzzle and amused myself for some time.
In the evening we took several (much needed) laps on the deck as we watched the sun dip into the sea. At 8 we went to the theater for a fun musical salute to Queen and Freddy Mercury. A stop for a glass of wine and some great people watching before bed.
Tomorrow, Cephalonia.
¡Ciao America! 